Rochas Pre-Fall 2022 Collection | vogue

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After an eccentric debut show for spring, young designer Charles de Vilmorin approached his Rochas pre-fall collection with more wearability in mind. The clothes were more classic, but softened by her natural penchant for fantasy.

During a Zoom call, he said he looked at the heritage of the house as well as photos of its founder, Marcel Rochas, and his wife, Hélène. One of Marcel’s jackets here became a prototype of the delicately belted white style with rounded sleeves, and a famous image of Hélène with a stuffed bird perched on the bodice of her dress – so famous that Olivier Theyskens used it when he was at Rochas 16 years ago – informed the jacquard pattern on a pair of cropped trousers. Another jacquard, which De Vilmorin has applied to jackets and coats, inspired by that of Sonia Delaunay AlphabetR for Roches. “I love this artist,” he said. “I am inspired by his direct message.” Exaggerated Pierrot collars were another one of his talking points, and the collection also had an outdoor trend that showed up in walking shorts and riding boots.

There was quite a bit going on and De Vilmorin’s disparate ideas weren’t really cohesive into a clear message, but he’s learning as he goes.

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